When I form the figures from wet clay, I use the rubber-tipped clay shapers just to indicate the general outline. The curves and bends are important, since when the figures dry up, they lose their flexibility. Proportions are important too, but they can always be adjusted during the fine shaping stage. The figures are very rough, as can be seen below.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"http:\/\/1.bp.blogspot.com\/-m4W_cC0LxiI\/UIOoFXbPcGI\/AAAAAAAAAYE\/-IIieUAFbYg\/s1600\/shaping1b.jpg\")
<\/a>![\"\"](\"http:\/\/1.bp.blogspot.com\/-RMHrvhzkCL4\/UIOoEQMQBNI\/AAAAAAAAAX8\/TL89whebfaI\/s1600\/shaping1a.jpg\")
<\/a><\/div>\nThe clay must DRY UP very well to be ready for further processing. Wet clay makes filing very difficult (and sanding – virtually impossible), the files get clogged, and, besides, the figures themselves can easily break. So be patient and let them dry at least for 24 hours.
\nI use the following tools for the fine shaping work: needle files, carving tools, rubber-tipped clay shapers (for building up) and last but not least sanding paper – from 400 to 2000 grit. Usually I start with filing, holding the figure above the sawdust collecting pot. But the dust is everywhere, so I brush it off from time to time with a (dedicated) hard toothbrush. The dust is a perfect building-up material, so if some parts need to to become more prominent, I just dip the rubber tip of the clay shaper in water, pick up some dust, make a slurry and apply it where necessary. The building-up is best done in layers, drying the clay with a hair-dryer in between.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"http:\/\/2.bp.blogspot.com\/-21WdFIzY-k8\/UIOo5rrJRJI\/AAAAAAAAAYY\/Ej6chM4mCg8\/s1600\/shaping2.jpg\")
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